Whispers from the Ghats of Kashi: A Journey into the Soul

The Mesmerising Ghats of Kashi

Hello friends, today I wish to share the memories of my life in Varanasi. Having born in the spiritual and cultural city of Varanasi is a great privilege for me, but it took me a long time to realize this. I was born in a generous household in the city of Varanasi, or Benaras as its residents address it. My house is in the posh neighbourhood of Varanasi, known as Sigra. As a child, it meant nothing special to me. I often used to hear my relatives from other cities talking great things about Benaras, which made no sense to me. As far as I was concerned, it was just another city in India. However, those were the days when I used to spend almost my entire time at home or my school. As I grew up and began exploring my city (sometimes while searching for coaching classes and sometimes accompanying my relatives to the glorious temples of Kashi), I began to realize that my city has a special position, not only in India, but the whole world. I saw heaps of foreign nationals swarming to Varanasi, visiting the Ghats of River Ganga, praying in the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, going to the Buddhist monasteries in Sarnath. It all seemed quite strange and difficult to comprehend.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple: the home of Lord Shiva

As I began contemplating on the significance of my city, I realized how it was so different and special. To begin with, Varanasi is one of the few cities which has many names. Even if its official name is Varanasi (which you can find on all the official documents, banners, government building and offices), you will hardly find a resident of Varanasi or nearby places who calls it by the name of ‘Varanasi’. The name used for addressing the city of Varanasi among one another is ‘Benaras’. Then, there is its spiritual name ‘Kashi’, which you can find in the religious scriptures, temples and monuments.

The style of living of the people of Varanasi is also quite fascinating. The carefree attitude of its residents towards life may seem improper to some, but it does not mean that the people are inconsiderate. If ever you find yourself in any kind of trouble or inconvenience in the streets and alleys of Varanasi, you need not worry, because the people of Varanasi will definitely step forward for your help.

One of the many things that make Varanasi special is its complex labyrinth of alleys. You can navigate to different parts of Varanasi through these alleyways very quickly, but only if you have spent a long time in Varanasi. Once you enter an alley from one part of the city, you can end up in an entirely distant part of the city without having to exit the alleyways. In my youthful days, these alleys were slightly hard to navigate due to the incessant crowd, but recently, the city has undergone many developmental changes, which have made traveling around Varanasi smoother.

BHU: One of the many gems of Varanasi

If you ask me, my favourite place in Varanasi (or arguably, the world) is Benaras Hindu University campus. Having spent most of my early life among the bustling crowd of Varanasi (although my locality was not crowded), like every resident of Varanasi, I was on the search for a place where I can find open spaces, wide roads and serene environment, and my search brought me to BHU. Unlike the city of Varanasi, BHU has sprawling campus, wide roads and greenery which is hard to find in Varanasi. As soon as you enter the large gate of BHU, the temperature drops instantly. You can feel the fresh air rejuvenating your senses. It’s a feeling very hard to describe in words. Right from the year 2006, me and my cousin, Vikash Pandey have been following a tradition of roaming around in the BHU campus on bike, without following any well-defined route. It’s quite strange that the apparently meaningless time spent there fills us with renewed energy and vigour. This unique tradition is being followed till date, and I hope to keep it that way.

Subah-e-Banaras: A sight to behold for eternity

Having spent most of my years in the holy city of Varanasi, I have come to realize that being born and raised there is a privilege which only a few have got. Now, I live in the city of Prayagraj, another holy city close to Varanasi, due to my job in the Hon’ble High Court, Allahabad. Even though both these cities are merely 125 km apart, which means I can visit my home town Varanasi, whenever I wish to, still I miss it badly. Whenever I go there, I go to the Ganga Ghats with my family. My wife, Swati and my two daughters, Jahnavi and Krishvi enjoy going there a lot. Having taken my city for granted for majority of my life, now after getting some life experience and becoming a father (well, my elder daughter was born in Varanasi, and my younger one in Prayagraj), I have understood the value and principles which I have been fortunate to have inherited, and I strive to maintain that indefinitely.

Maha Shmashan: Where body merges with the soul

Kashi is the city of Lord Shiva, Kaal Bhairav and river Ganga. Here, the river Ganga is in the shape of crescent moon, just like moon on the crown of Lord Shiva. The city has the largest crematorium at holy Marnikarnika Ghat, which gave Kashi another name ‘Maha-shmashan’. Just imagine the chanting sounds echoing from the numerous ghats lining up the river Ganga, the hustle and bustle of people of all nationalities chilling at Assi Ghat, the indescribable vision of ‘Subah-e-Banaras’ falling on your eyes, and endless beautiful experiences waiting for you in Varanasi. It is impossible to give even a glimpse of what dwells in the mystic city of Benaras, and only way to know is to live it yourself.

Sarnath: A Buddhist pilgrimage of utmost importance

In the end, I would like to encourage everybody who have either not visited Benaras till now or have not given a thought of experiencing the endless beauty of it, please go there and take a stroll in its narrow alleys. I assure you that the narrow alleys will broaden your perspective towards life, and unhinge the locked door to your soul. It’s my home and I owe my life to it. I would like to add quickly that recently, a newer modern side of Varanasi has been unfurled, which adds a different layer to the infinite beauty of Benaras.

So, let's chant:

श्री काशी विश्वनाथो विजयतेतराम ||

अन्नपूर्णे सदापूर्णे शङ्करप्राणवल्लभे।
ज्ञानवैराग्यसिद्ध्यर्थं भिक्षां देहि च पार्वति॥

काशी क्षेत्रमधीत्य तत्तत्तीर्थं श्राद्धं कुर्यादभिप्रेतसंस्थम्।

श्राद्धकाले तु द्विजोऽतिपात्रस्तु तस्य पुण्यं तत्सर्वमिवार्जितं स्यात्॥

असि क्षेत्रं तु वाराणसी यत्र क्षीरोदधि: संभवति।

तत्र देवाः समागच्छन्त रुद्राद्या ये च सिद्धचारणाः॥

About Varanasi

Benaras, also known as Varanasi, is a city steeped in spiritual and mystical beauty. Located on the banks of the sacred river Ganges in the northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, Benaras is a city like no other. Its rich cultural heritage, ancient history, and deep spiritual significance make it a truly unique destination for travelers from all over the world.

The city of Benaras has been a center of spiritual and mystical practice for over 3,000 years. It is said that Lord Shiva himself once walked the streets of this city, making it a sacred place for Hindus. The city is also believed to be the birthplace of the ancient science of Ayurveda, which has been practiced here for centuries.

One of the most striking features of Benaras is the city’s vast number of temples and shrines. It is said that there are more than 2,000 temples in the city, each one unique in its architecture and significance. Some of the most famous temples in Benaras include the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the Sankat Mochan Temple, and the Durga Temple. These temples are not just places of worship, but also cultural and architectural wonders that attract visitors from all over the world.

Another highlight of Benaras is the Ganges River, which flows through the city. The Ganges is considered to be one of the holiest rivers in the world, and a dip in its waters is believed to purify the soul. The river is also the site of the famous Ganga Aarti, a daily ritual where devotees gather to offer prayers and light candles to the goddess Ganga. The sight of hundreds of candles floating down the river is a truly breathtaking experience, and one that should not be missed.

In addition to its spiritual significance, Benaras is also a hub of cultural activity. The city is famous for its music, dance, and art, and hosts a number of festivals throughout the year. The most famous of these is the annual Durga Puja festival, which takes place in October and November. During this festival, the city comes alive with music, dance, and colorful street processions.

Despite its ancient heritage, Benaras is also a modern city with all the amenities that travelers expect. There are plenty of restaurants, cafes, and hotels to choose from, and the city is well-connected to other parts of India by road, rail, and air.

How to Reach

There are several ways to reach Varanasi, including:

By Air: The Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport in Varanasi is well-connected to major cities in India and abroad. It is located around 26 km from the city center, and you can take a taxi or a bus to reach your destination.

By Train: Varanasi Junction is the main railway station in the city, and it is well-connected to major cities in India. There are several trains that run daily to Varanasi, and you can choose from different classes like AC, sleeper, and general, depending on your budget and comfort.

By Road: Varanasi is well-connected by road to major cities in India. You can take a bus or hire a taxi to reach the city. The NH2 and NH31 are the two main highways that connect Varanasi to other parts of India.

By Waterways: You can also reach Varanasi by waterways. The city is located on the banks of the river Ganges, and there are several boats that run from cities like Allahabad and Patna to Varanasi. You can also take a river cruise from Kolkata to Varanasi.

Local Transport: Once you reach Varanasi, you can explore the city by hiring a taxi, auto-rickshaw, or a cycle-rickshaw. The city is well-connected by public transport, and you can also use the local buses to get around.

Map of Varanasi: